Wo du in Rishikesh Yoga üben solltest: Unsere Geheimtipps

Bei meinem ersten Trip nach Rishikesh war ich völlig geflasht von dem kleinen Örtchen am Ganges. So sehr, dass ich zwei Jahre später wieder hinreiste. Anfang März. Ein Idee, die sich als schlechte herausstellte.

Im Februar und im März versammeln sich die Gurus in Rishikesh. Mooji mit seiner Riesensangha hält täglich Satsang, Shantimayi schart ihre Crew um sich und nebenan kann man den Weisheiten von Sri Prem Baba lauschen. Es ist Hochsaison für Teacher Trainings und als wäre das nicht genug, findet noch das Internationale Yogafestival statt, das zwar tolle westliche Lehrer*innen wie Jules Febre und Gurmukh mit den indischen Yoga-Größen zusammenbringt, aber gleichzeitig dafür sorgt, das das kleine Städtchen explodiert. Es ist megalaut, die Unterkünfte sind voll und die ultraspirituellen Menschen überall nerven.

Außerdem ist zu der Zeit auch noch Holi, das indische Fest, bei dem mit Farben geworfen wird. Einmal habe ich das mitgemacht, was definitiv reicht.

Trotzdem liebe ich Rishikesh.

Das Örtchen hat einen ganz besonderen Vibe, man kann super essen und rumhängen und verrückte Menschen beobachten und kennenlernen. Von den ganzen Meditationskursen, Satsangs, Tempeln und weiteren Möglichkeiten, sich spirituell auszutoben, fange ich gar nicht erst an. Ich wollte vor allem Yoga üben. Bei den großen Meister*innen Rishikeshs – und werde bestimmt auch wieder hinfahren. Nur eben nicht in der Hochsaison.

Yoga in Rishikesh lohnt sich. Nur wo fange ich an zu suchen?

Bei meiner eigenen Suche war der Rat meines Lehrers Pankaj Sharma Gold wert. Nun will ich dich auf deiner Reise unterstützen und mein Best-Of Yoga in Rishikesh mit dir teilen. Obwohl es mir schwer fällt, meine Begeisterung für die Lehrer, die ich kennengelernt habe, in Worte zu fassen. Denn es fühlt sich an, als wäre ich zu den Wurzeln des Yoga gereist. Als hätte ich endlich das Original kennengelernt. Eine Art Yoga zu praktizieren, die ich hier noch nicht gefunden habe. Kurz: Es war  toll, toll, toll!

Hatha-Yoga mit viel Herz: Surinder Singh

Yoga in rishkiesh Surinder Singh

You will be hard pushed to find a nicer man„, stand in einer Tipp-Mail, die ich von einer Freundin bekommen habe. Und ja. So ist es. Surinder Singh hat mich mit seinem Unterricht, seinen Worten und vor allem seiner Präsenz schwer beeindruckt.

Vor dem Yogaunterricht nimmt sich Surinder einen Moment, faltet die Hände vor dem Herzen, dreht sich zum Fenster, wo auch ein großer Shiva steht, und betet (zumindest vermute ich das). Dann dreht er sich zu den Schüler*innen um und nimmt sich einen weiteren Moment der Stille.

„You will be hard pushed to find a nicer man“

Für mich fühlte es sich an, als würde er jede*n Einzelne*n auf einer anderen Ebene wahrnehmen und energetisch in sich aufnehmen. Dann beginnt er ein wenig Prana durch den Raum zu schieben, „inhale, exhale“ zu sagen und alle Yogis machen wie von Zauberhand die richtigen Bewegungen dazu. Asana-mäßig nicht das Nonplusultra, aber das ist total egal, denn hier passiert etwas anderes. Surindhers Assists sind legendär, denn die funktionieren über ganz subtile, feine Berührungen, manchmal sogar lediglich mithilfe eines Blicks. Er könnte auch Sackhüpfen unterrichten, ich würde hingehen.

Während des Unterrichts freute ich mich schon immer auf Surinders Fünf-Minuten-Satsang nach dem Asana-Teil, in denen er kurz ein yogaphilosophisches Thema anschnitt, ein Mudra (symbolische Handgeste) erklärte und seine Weisheit mit uns teilte.

Stil: Hatha-Yoga
Geeignet für: Jede*n! Ohne Ausnahme!
Wann: Täglich 8.30 Uhr und 17.00 Uhr außer Sonntags
Wo: Im grasgrünen, hohen Haus hinter den Mateshwari Hospital. Nähe Ram Jhula auf der Seite, Swarg Ashram
Kosten: 200 Rupies pro Klasse (3 Euro)
Weitere Informationen: swastiyoga.com und hier ein Video.

Back to the roots of yoga: Rudra Dev

Yoga in Rishikesh Rudra Dev

Er hat keine Webseite, online gibt es keine Kontaktdetails und auch in Rishikesh konnte mir fast niemand sagen, wo ich Swamiji Rudra Dev, einen der erfahrensten Iyengar Lehrer*innen und direkter Schüler des großen Gurus, finde. Doch wie das Foto beweist: Ich habe bei dem Meister geübt. Und inzwischen bin ich in Besitz einer Broschüre, auf der alles steht, was man wissen muss. Mein Lieblings-Auszug daraus: „Promotes the Universal Brotherhood and Selfless service among mankind irrespective of caste, creed, community and nationality„.

„Promotes the Universal Brotherhood and Selfless service among mankind irrespective of caste, creed, community and nationality“

Wenn du im Yoga Study Centre bei Rudra Dev üben willst, solltest du es ernst meinen. Dich auf einen 15-Tage Kurs einlassen und jeden Morgen pünktlich um 6:45 Uhr ohne Schischi auf der Matte stehen. Um allerdings zu dem Kurs zugelassen zu werden, musst du Swamiji am Vorabend persönlich treffen. Ich war die ganze Zeit aufgeregt, habe am Vortag brav vorgesprochen und jedes Wort aufgesogen, das Rudra im Unterricht von sich gegeben hat. Und ich sag’s dir, so akkurat stand ich noch nie im Baum.

Nach der Klasse hatte ich das Glück noch ein wenig mit dem Meister persönlich zu sprechen. Durch all seine Ernsthaftigkeit strahlt tiefe Hingabe an Yoga, Demut seinem Guru gegenüber und ein so ein tiefes Verlangen, seinen Schüler*innenn Yoga als Lebensweg zu lehren, dass ich zutiefst gerührt war.

Außerdem toll: Die Hälfte der Schüler und Schülerinnen waren Inder*innen, weshalb der Unterricht in Englisch, Hindi und etwas Sanskrit stattfand.

Stil: Iyengar
Geeignet für: Alle, die es gerne pur mögen, eine „andere“ Erfahrung suchen und es wirklich ernst mit dem Yoga meinen
Wann: 15 Tage Programm im Februar, April und September, beginnend mit der ersten Woche des Monats
Wo: Yoga Study Centre, Ganga Vihar, Haridwar Road, etwa 4 km außerhalb Rishikeshs. Du musst dich einfach durchfragen.
Kosten: Auf Spendenbasis
Weitere Informationen: Am besten anrufen unter der Nummer +91 135 2433837 oder Mail an yogastudycentre(at)yahoo.in schreiben. Hier ein kleines Video von Swamiji.

Üben mit Grand Dame des Yoga: Usha Devi

Usha Devi Yoga in Rishikesh

Wer nach gutem Yoga in Rishikesh sucht, kommt an Usha Devi nicht vorbei. Zum Glück! Endlich mal eine Frau unter all den männlichen Lehrern. Die gebürtige Schweizerin lebt seit 30 Jahren in Indien und begann 1993 bei B.K.S. Iyengar zu lernen. Bis heute verbreitet sie die Lehre ihres „Guruji“ mit Hingabe und Überzeugung.

Ihre Klassen im Omkarananda Ashram, wo sie von Montag bis Freitag um 18 Uhr unterrichtet, sind wahnsinnig schnell ausgebucht. Am besten meldet man sich am Sonntagmorgen für die ganze Woche an. Ich war leider zu spät dran und die Liste (mit bestimmt 70 Plätzen) war mittags schon voll. In der Hoffnung, dass vielleicht jemand ausfällt, wartete ich dann zwei Tage vor der Tür und konnte dann tatsächlich einen Platz in Ushas Klasse ergattern.

Oft wird Usha nachgesagt, sie sei spröde, doch ich habe ehrlich gesagt eine wahnsinnig tolle Lehrerin erlebt, die nur das Beste für ihre Schüler*innen will. Dazu gehört eben gut zuhören. Und üben. Zusätzlich zum Unterricht – der ist laut Usha für den Kopf – soll das Gelernte bei der morgendlichen Self-Practice dem Körper verständlich gemacht werden. Schüler*innen, die nicht in der Iyengar-Tradition vertraut sind, empfehle ich Beginner-Kurse zum Einstieg.

Sehr sinnvoll, wie ich finde. Auch wenn ich nur zweimal da war, fühle mich von Ushas direkter und gleichzeitig liebevoller Art sehr inspiriert. Eine tolle Frau, die ich jedem*r von euch ans Herz legen kann.

Stil: Iyengar
Geeignet für: Yogalehrer*innen, (relativ) fortgeschrittene Yogis
Wann: Montag bis Freitag 18 Uhr (16 Uhr gibt es einen Beginner-Kurs mit einem Iyengar-Junior Teacher)
Wo: Omkarananda Ashram, Ram Jhula, Rishikesh
Kosten: Ich weiß es nicht genau, aber ich meine 800 Rupies, also ca. 12 Euro für die ganze Woche
Weitere Informationen: Ein Video gibt es hier, Infos bei yoga.in und hier.

Specialtipp Green Hotel, Pankaj Sharma und ein wenig Ashtanga-Yoga

Du merkst schon, ich finde Iyengar-Yoga toll. Es ist eine tolle Ergänzung zu meiner Jivamukti-Praxis. Wenn du mit den statischen Asanas nichts anfangen kannst und lieber im Flow übst, habe ich noch einen Tipp für dich. Yogi Kamal unterrichtet klassisches Ashtanga-Yoga und soll toll sein. Du findest ihn bei Tattvaayoga. Ich selbst hatte nicht die Gelegenheit bei ihm zu üben, doch habe den Tipp von der von mir sehr geschätzten Gabriela Bozic. Insofern kannst du das ruhig ausprobieren!

Außerdem ist das Green Hotel eine der besten Adressen für Yoga in Rishikesh.

Besonders für alle, die sich nicht gleich auf einen 4-Wochenkurs festlegen wollen. Nach der Klasse bei Ashish Sharma, Pankajs Bruder, fühlte ich mich großartig. Sein Unterricht hatte es in sich und ich habe mal wieder jede Menge gelernt. Eine Familie, der Yoga im Blut liegt.

Im Dezember gibt Pankaj Sharma dort auch Yoga-Intensiv-Kurse, die sich in erster Linie an Yogalehrer*innen und Fortgeschrittene richten. Von Pankaj habe ich schon in seinen Workshops bei Peaceyoga so viel über Asana gelernt, dass ich es nicht erwarten kann, mehr von ihm zu lernen.

Wo du in Rishikesh Yoga üben solltest (+Geheimtipps) 5

Er selbst bezeichnet seinen Unterricht als Hatha-Yoga, ich würde sagen: Undogmatisches, tolles Iyengar-Yoga. Pankajs Wissen über den menschlichen Körper ist immens und er ist so lustig, dass das Lernen total Spaß macht.

Infos zu Yoga im Green Hotel: www.hotelgreen.com
Infos zu Pankaj und den Intensive am besten bei ihm persönlich im Studio in Frankfurt oder per Mail erfragen: contact(at)pankajyoga.de

Ich bin so dankbar, dass ich bei so grandiosen Lehrer*innen üben konnte und werde sicher bald wieder nach Rishikesh fahren und meine Erfahrungen vertiefen. Bleibt nur die Frage: Bei wem?

Zum Schluss noch mein Tipp: Fahre außerhalb der Saison hin. Ein bisschen nach Mooji oder davor. Dann hast du mehr Zeit und Muße, dich vom Örtchen am Ganges verzaubern zu lassen.

Hast du Tipps zu ergänzen? Welche Yoga-Erfahrung in Rishikesh hat bei dir Eindruck gemacht?

Deine Rebecca

Bilder: Bild von Usha Devi by Coni Hörler (Danke fürs zur Verfügung stellen!)

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  126. AKSHAT YOGASHALA
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  132. 200 Hour Yoga Teacher Training Course In Rishikesh
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  133. Transforamal yoga is new form of yoga in this yoga we use amalgamate techniques of Hatha, Astanga, White tantra, Raja, Mantra and Kundalini yoga to bring about quick transformations in our aspirants. we provide you a cours of 200 hours and 300 hours transformational yoga teacher training in which you learn or practices high experiential and transformational value of yoga, aspirants who are sincerely looking for profound changes in their life.

  134. Holistic yoga purifying the body and mind of a person.Holistic yoga work on your whole body.In Holistic Yoga when you are doing asanas your focus is upon your breath. holistic term means whole body in some aspects its work on life of practitioner’s.Holistic yoga Asanas, breathing exercises and meditation are all part of, and essential to a complete yoga practice.

  135. Hatha Yoga means force or in ancient times we say it „the force of yoga“. or the means of attaining a state of yoga through force. hatha yoga means anything which you can do with your body. There is a different asana in Hatha yoga which involves different techniques of physical postures and breathing. This asana is done slowly with a few minutes of hold and then later get your position back in a slow way.

  136. kundalini yoga is a form of yoga in which you activate your kundalini energy or shakti which is located at the base of the spine. In kundalini yoga, we involve chanting, singing, breathing exercises, and repetitive poses. It means the focus is not only to make your body strong or energetic but also to increase your level of self-awareness and responsiveness.

  137. meditation is the set of techniques that encourage the state of awareness and focus on our body and mind. Meditation is not practiced only for a few years in India but it has been practiced all over the world for thousands of years. Every religion use this technique for thousands of years. some people do the meditation of their religious or spiritual beliefs and some do this for mental peace and mindfulness.

  138. Holistic yoga purifies the body and mind of a person. Holistic yoga work on your whole body. In Holistic Yoga when you are doing asanas your focus is upon your breath. the holistic term means whole body in some aspects its work on the life of practitioners.

  139. kundalini yoga is a form of yoga in which you activate your kundalini energy or shakti which is located at the base of the spine. In kundalini yoga, we involve chanting, singing, breathing exercises, and repetitive poses. It means the focus is not only to make your body strong or energetic but also to increase your level of self-awareness and responsiveness.

  140. In Meditation we stop those thoughts coming into our mind, when we become a good meditator then this thought will also not come into our mind. An Experience master will help you to do this, Because meditation is not a one-day practice for meditation you need a proper focus then you get its benefits, When you become a good meditator then you feel your self stress-free, more peace, and energy in your self.

  141. Thank you for sharing this wonderful article..!!! Rishikesh Yogkulam exists to bring the authentic teachings of yoga back to yoga; both on and off the mat. And to create a physical and virtual place for a conscious community to practice the art, science, and philosophy of authentic yoga.

  142. Now It’s the great opportunity for all yoga practitioners to acquire online certified yoga teacher training courses from Himalayan yoga association.

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  143. I am so grateful I found your post, you are inspiring me for doing yoga. You’ve really covered up almost all the possible tips should follow to doing yoga. I have been thinking of doing yoga. Actually, I got a lot of information from your blog which can help to make a yoga plan. Thanks.

  144. Hi, danke für den informativen Kommentar! Ich war auch zur Hochsaison dort und muss ergänzen, dass es eine wirklich tolle Erfahrung war, Mooji und Shanti Meyi zu hören und zu sehen. Ich kannte sie davor nicht und wurde dorthin quasi mitgenommen. Auch wenn die Stadt dann voll ist, solche Gurus zu hören ist definitiv auch ein großes Geschenk!

  145. Liebe Rebecca! Deine Indien Artikel fand ich schon toll vor meiner ersten Reise 2014. Mittlerweile sind wir Eltern geworden aber wenn ich das hier so lese juckt es mich in den Füßen.

  146. Hi Rebecca and everyone

    Rishikesh is known around the world as one of the holiest cities in India. The Beatles made it famous, and even today, you’ll be swept up by the meditative atmosphere the moment you arrive. “The Yoga Capital of the World” is a mecca for spiritual seekers and yoga practitioners alike.

    Thanks.

  147. Yoga teacher training in Rishikesh provides an overview of each yoga training school in Rishikesh. The Yoga TTC courses available and the cost of the different courses and the facility provided are been in detailed. thanks for sharing it.

  148. Hallo Rebecca!
    Vielen Dank für deinen Artikel ich finde ihn immer noch super hilfreich! Ich werde im April ebenfalls nach Risikesh reisen, um für 2-3 Wochen bei verschiedenen Lehrern zu praktizieren. Ich wollte dich fragen, ob du ein Tipp für ein gutes Hostel oder Homestay hast von wo aus man zu den verschiedenen Klassen gehen kann?

    Wäre super dankbar über jegliche Tipps!
    Ganz liebe Grüße,
    Alice

  149. Liebe Rebecca! Danke fuer diesen super hilfreichen Beitrag. Ich habe einige Fragen und hoffe, dass du diese Kommentare noch liest.. Ich wuerde gerne ca. 1-2 Monate in Indien verbringen. Ein grosser Wunsch ist es, meine Yogapraxis zu vertiefen. Nun weiss ich nicht, ob ich nach Mysore oder Rishikesh gehen soll. Ich habe ca. 3-4 Jahre Yogaerfahrungen (Jivamukti, Vinyasa, Ashtanga inspired style), mit Mysore aber sehr wenig.. Ich mag LED classes, wuerde aber gerne in Zukunft auch mal intensiv Mysore praktizieren. Nun dachte ich, intensiv fuer 4 Wochen Mysore zu praktizieren, und vielleicht 2 Wochen in Rishikesh, oder vielleicht sind 4 Wochen Mysore ‚zu viel‘? Ich mag den Stil von Jivamukti sehr.. dann weiters mag ich slow travel, war noch nie in Indien und weiss nicht, ob ich mich nur auf einen Ort fokusieren soll.. Mysore und Rishikesh sind ja schon ziemlich weit weg, und innerhalb des Landes moechte ich ungern fliegen.. danke fuer deine Hilfe!

    1. Hi Jule,

      in Rishikesh findest du in erster Linie Iyengar Yoga. Und naja, Rishikesh ist wie oben beschrieben. In Mysore war ich noch nie.

      Aber supergeil für einen Indien-Anfang ist Goa. Geh zu Regina nach Patnem: http://astangaheads.com/?lang=de Sie ist toll und unterrichtet Ashtanga. Und 4 Wochen Mysore ist super. Von Goa aus kannst du super weiter in Süden, Hampi, Kerala oder nach Mumbai. Der Trip von unten nach Rishikesh ist ordentlich, auch mit dem Flugzeug.

      Der Süden ist als Frau alleine auch ein bisschen einfacher würde ich sagen.

      Liebe Grüße und gute Zeit,
      Rebecca

  150. Danke für diese tollen Tipps! Ich reise Mitte Oktober nach Rishikesh und bin schon voller Vorfreude. Ich war im letzten Jahr eine Nacht dort und habe gespürt, dass ich länger nach Rishikesh gehen sollte.

    Ich bin auch ein großer Iyengar Fan, praktiziere in Hamburg bei Christo Iwantschew Iyengar Yoga und ich liebe es.

    Liebste Grüße aus Hamburg nach Berlin,
    Jenni

  151. Hallo liebe Yogis, Hallo Rebecca,
    Ich möchte eine Yogalehrerausbildung in Rishikesh machen. Das Angebot ist überwältigend!
    Ich bin interessiert an der „Nada Yoga School“.
    Hat jemand Erfahrungen mit diesem Ashram?
    Oder andere Tipps bezüglich des YTTC-I ?
    Herzliche Grüße
    Katharina

  152. hallo rebecca und yogis!
    ich überlege gerade relativ spontan alleine nach indien (speziell rishikesh und dharamsala) zu reisen, da es die zeit gerade so passend zulässt. habt ihr einen tipp für rishikesh als erste behausung, wo ich mich als frau alleine wohlfühle? ich würde gerne vom flughafen in delhi direkt weiter nach rishikesh – auch hier: welcher transport ist für da für mich am angenehmsten? bin sehr dankbar über tipps!
    alles liebe
    marie

    1. Hallo Marie,
      wann planst du denn nach Rishikesh zu reisen? Werde vorraussichtlich im Juni für ein YTT alleine hinreisen und bin schon ganz aufgeregt. Vielleicht können wir uns ja austauschen oder zusammentun oder so? Von Delhi nach Rishikesh kommst du am Besten mit dem Flieger. Der Flughafen heißt Dehradun. In einer knappen Stunde ist man oben. So werde ich es jedenfalls machen. Taxi, Busse oder Zug sind aber wohl auch eine Option.
      Freu mich auf deine Antwort :)
      LG, Vanessa

  153. Sehr erfrischendes Yoga gibt es auch bei NEO Yoga. Akhislesh lädt zu seinen Teacherkursen gern Lehrer aus anderen Richtungen ein. Ausserdem lernte ich dort viel üver Ayurveda, sprituelle Hintergründe und vieles mehr. Seine 4 Wochen teacher trainings macht er in Goa, Rishikesh und Dharamshala. Sehr empfehlenswert

  154. Liebe Rebecca! Deine Indien Artikel fand ich schon toll vor meiner ersten Reise 2014. Mittlerweile sind wir Eltern geworden aber wenn ich das hier so lese juckt es mich in den Füßen. Doch wieder nach Indien! Mit Kleinkind diesmal sicherlich eine ganz neue Herausforderung. Hast du zufällig Tipps für yogaklassen mit Kinderbetreuung, das wäre Luxus! Kennst du Yogis die mit ihrer Familien reisen? Ich sammle gerade Ideen und Inspiration und auch etwas Mut. Aber hach. Rishikesh!

      1. Ah I see! Danke für den Tipp Sie bietet retreats in Italien an. Nicht ganz Indien ? aber vielleicht auch nicht schlecht auf dem Schirm zu haben!

  155. Hi Rebecca,

    Ich habe gesehen, dass du wieder in Indien bist.
    Deine Liste hier hat mir im Dezember in Rishikesh sehr geholfen.

    Zwei Tipps:
    Tattvaa Yoga ist wirklich super! Yogi Kamal unterrichtet scheinbar selbst gar nicht mehr, sondern ist nur noch für seine Ytt Studenten verfügbar. Ich war 3 mal bei einer anderen Lehrerin in der LED class am Abend. Die hatte es wirklich in sich. Ich habe noch nie solchen intensiven asissts bekommen. War ein guter ashtanga drill. Muss man wollen, ich fand es großartig zur Abwechslung.

    Yoga Vini (macht hier Werbung in den Kommentaren) ist auf jeden Fall auch einen Besuch wert. Er hat so unglaublich viel zu erzählen, vor allem was eine korrekte Ausrichtung betrifft. Ich war leider nur einmal dort, aber die Klasse ging anstatt der 90 min gleich mal über 2 Stunden.

    Und Surinder ja sowieso <3

    Viel Spaß in Rishikesh!
    Yvonne

  156. “Yogavini” is one of the renowned yoga schools in the beautiful seneric view of the hills of Rishikesh in Uttarakhand state. Yoganivi is a registered Yoga school providing the yoga knowledge and training under the guidance of yoga experts.
    Yogavini Rishikesh is situated at Laxmanjhula in Trimbakeshwar Temple on the bank of river Holy Ganga in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. The campus of Yogavini Ashram provides the accommodation and meal also to the yoga aspirants.
    Yogavini is offering the 200 hour training session in Yoga Teachers Training Certificate (TTC) to generate the teachers as per the guidelines of Yoga Alliance Association (YAA). After completion this training, one can open the own Yoga Academy anywhere in the world. This training will include the awareness, knowledge, tool & technique of yoga, philosophy and culture of yoga.

  157. Liebe Anne,

    fast alle erwähnten bilden auch aus. Surinder macht auf jeden Fall ein Teacher Training, das super spannend aussieht. Ich denke bei den Iyengar Lehrern ist das eher eine Sache, die über Jahre geht.

    Alles LIebe
    Rebecca

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